Well, here it is. Short but sweet. Glad to be back in the saddle so to speak. This one wasn't easy to kick out the door. If it wasn't the cold that I was fighting, it was losing all of my audio files when I was almost done which forced me to start back at square one. Oh well... it was worth it.
This episodes topics included:
Thanks for checking in. With some luck, this will show up on the iTunes soon...
I was kinda affraid that it would come to this... The "this" that I'm speaking of is the Leadville 100 MTB Race. With the recent popularity of the event because of Lance and the Race Across the Sky movie, I'm sure that Ken and Merilee were flooded with applications for the 2010 race.
As you can imagine, there are a lot of rumblings coming from those who "didn't make the cut". I understand that that's going to happen. Things have certainly changed from the first time I did the race in 1997 and the last time in 2006 (and 3 other times in between...). That, I guess is to be expected.
A buddy of mine who I went out to crew for last year, applied for the 2010 race. He even volunteered a whole day marking the course.... Still, no dice. (You are supposed to get preference in the 2010 entry process). Anyway, here's something that he just sent me that he found posted on the LT100 message board:
I have a friend that has started this race endeavor alongside me 9 years
ago. He's finished 4 LV100's. Then he was injured when he hit a guard rail
training for LV100 and had to take a couple of years off for the bone to
heal and other important family matters. He has been volunteering in the
foot race and the bike race over the last 4 years whether he raced or not.
Hell, he even scrambled to pick up and deliver the musette bag Lance fumbled
and dropped at the Twin Lakes Aid Station two years ago while he flew
through the checkpoint. He applied this year ready to race and finish. He
didn't make the cut.
In his 'Dear John' email from Merilee they said 'sorry, you didn't make it,
but basically you can buy your way in by forking out a wad of cash via
Carmichael's Train Right program. Obviously the corporate machine has its
teeth sunk into this cash cow. I see too many political similarities here
that came down from the State level.
Bottom line is that we want things be "more popular" or more "mainstream", but we don't want things about it to change... That rarely happens. Thanks for reading. -John
I was recently asked by @justinbrennan on @twitter what my opinions are regarding the different designs or techniques for connecting chains that are currently out there and if I had any preferences. Well, as you can imagine, I do have some opinions as well as preferences.
I think that it's best to first preface this with saying that no matter how good the design is, if you do not do the installation properly, you are more than likely going to experience some sort of failure, so do it right.
Let's break this down into brands...Shimano HG & IG Pins:
I have no issues with this design. It works for the useful life of the chain... unlike their Quick-Link design issue that I noted here. I like this simple, low cost design.Campagnolo C-10 HD Link:
Besides the fact that it's the most costly (approx $30US for just the Link Kit) and the big $'s for the Campy chain tool, it's also the most time/labor intensive design... Hey, you have to pay to play especially when it comes to Campy.... I think that because of this, folks are more likely to do a half-ass chain cleaning job with the chain on the bike instead of the more thorough approach associated with removing the chain. I'm ok with this, but I have a hard time looking folks in the eye and telling them the cost...
See above but more $$$.SRAM Powerlink:SRAM PowerLock:Wippermann ConneX 9&10:
KMC Missing Link:
See previous comment.
So there you have it. I hope that this helps, and remember, this is my opinion that is based on first-hand experience. Thanks for checking in. -John
"Facts are stubborn things..."
This is directed to those handful of folks that took the time to painstakingly ripped me up one side and down the other regarding how little I know about the Campagnolo Ultra-Torque design and basic mechanical knowledge. Part of me says that I've wasted enough time on this and I should just let it go. But a larger part just can't let it go because I know that there are some people out there that are experiencing this issue and I want to help if I can.... That, and the truth be told, I have very little tolerance for idiots spewing misinformation as truth while masquerading as some sort of authority. When in actuality, most of them are at best naive, and uninformed at worst.
I'm going to lay out the facts about the design. Then I'm going to then share what my REAL WORLD experience has been relating to the UT system and general bike knowledge, not some theoretical BS. I am then going to wrap this post up with a few of my own opinions. Now, let's get started...
Facts about the Campagnolo Ultra-Torque System
Facts about RogueMechanic Installation and Procedures
My .02 about this...
Here's a quick video that I shot showing the end result of removing the wavewasher and installing the proper amount of shims. Take a look.
In closing, I'm sure that I'm not the only one scratching my head wondering why Campagnolo put this Ultra-Torque design out there and allowing for this issue to arise. If anyone knows the answer, please let me know. Thanks for checking in. -John
As probably all of you know, the premier showing on the big screen of Race Across the Sky happened last Thursday in many theaters nationwide. Up front, I have to admit that I was fairly pumped to see it, especially after watching the trailer more than once.
This years LT100 race was different for me than the other five that I had attended over the years. This is because it was the first time being there for the event and not racing. My reason for being there was to prep some bikes the day before and to crew the day of the race. I have to admit, that it was pretty cool seeing it from a different perspective and worlds easier.
Now, after seeing it and letting it sink in for a few days I'd like to share with you my perspective. First, let me say that I can't really complain about ANY movie on the big screen having to do with the LT100. How cool is that! I bet Ken and Merilee are thrilled to have this amount of exposure for the event that they put a ton of effort into. I am very happy for them. But..... I would be lying if I said that I wasn't more than a little disappointed when the screen when black after Ken pulled the trigger on the scattergun, and here's why.
I think that the producers might have missed focus about what this race is all about for the vast majority of those who go out to tackle this event. We all know that Lance, Wiens, and Brown can ride fast and kick butt on any given day. Why focus the vast majority on them? They ride for a living. The rest of us who suffer like dogs do not. I'm not blind to the fact that having Lance in the movie will definitely sell tickets and put butts in the seats, and that can't be ignored. So, here are a few things that I think were missed (or ended up on the editing floor) that I believe might have played a significant role it the other "ninety percenters":
To wrap this up, all in all, it was good, but I thought that maybe having the Last Ass over the Pass winner and the person who was the first to miss out on the coveted La Plata Grande with Lance, Dave, Travis, et al during the discussion after the movie would have been the icing...
Wow.... Seriously?!?! You gotta check this out...
I started this thread on the weightweenies forum a couple days ago:
Well, I'm excited to be back here. It's been a while... For those of you that have experienced or are still experiencing noise and other issues related to their Campy Ultra-Torque bottom bracket/crankset (by the sheer volume of emails and comments that I have received over the past 12+ months, there's quite a few folks that are dealing with this...), I finally had the chance to publish a permanent fix/solution on my site. Additionally, I have a parts kit now available. Here's the link:
"Wavewasherectomy: The Ultra-Torque Fix"
Check it out if you are inclined and let me know if you have any questions....
I returned to the forum yesterday to see if there were any comments that I needed to reply to. For the life of me, I couldn't find my post. I sent one of the moderators a PM for help. This is the response I received this morning from "Powerful Pete", one of the mods:
Hello there RogueMechanic. As you may have noticed, we have pulled the thread that you started on the UT fix. It came across, in the opinion of the mods, as a bit too much like spam - in others, that you were trying to sell a product without coming clean that you were involved in some manner.
I realise that this may have been an honest mistake on your part, or that we mods may have misinterpreted your post.
We of course welcome your participation in the forum, and it sounds like you could add a lot of value here, but please do read the forum rules before posting and try to avoid posts that could be interpreted as being spam.
Please let me know if you would like to discuss further, Thanks.
<<<<<<<<<< coloclimber >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
$35 + $5 shipping for 8 washers to solve a problem that shouldnt exist in the fist place......
::::::::::::::::::::::: RogueMechanic ::::::::::::::::::::::::::
I completely agree. The problem shouldn't exist on with a product of such high quality... I know that if I dropped the big $'s on Campy UT, I'd be hacked off myself.
I mentioned your fix on here when someone was talking about their crankset. Glad to see the fix is available.
As for other who have posted here or on RBR, I have to say, I have more than one UT crankset. None have issues. But, that isn't to say there are not people out there without issues.
Things happen. Plain and simple. If John has experienced issues with his clients, I would believe him. He is VERY skilled and a great tech.
So, for those who have had issues and they keep popping back up, I would go his route. And no, John has never worked on one of my bikes. But we have raced many times against each other in the past and know each other through the grapevine.
I have yet to respond to Powerful Pete, and half of me doesn't want to. Unless I'm way off base, I didn't think that I came across as aggressively pushing my solution and/or my "Wavewasherectomy" Shim Kit...
In closing, I'm wondering what these forums are for anyway, or if my thread just got wacked from this forum because it butted heads with the sacred component gods in Vicenza and their followers (See link above to Powerful Petes blog) ...
Update: I have corresponded with Pete and after having a polite discussion, I realized that I was in violation of the forum rules by offering a product for sale. I was wrong and for that I apologize. FWIW, the weight weenies forum is probably the most civil cycling forum out there. -John
Before I get started, I want to let you know that some of the steps that I'm
going to recommend you to do contradicts some of those found in the installation
instructions that is provided by Campagnolo. It's up to you to decide what you
want to do. But everything that I recommend doing regarding this procedure,
I have tried myself on multiple bikes. I extensively researched, tested, and re-inspected
bikes that I did this "wavewasherectomy" on and found zero issues. I didn't want
to throw anything out there without being absolutely sure that it works. Because
that's how I roll... Anyway, that being said, you can rest assured that if you take the
time to do this right, you will have the Ultra-Torque crankset/bottom bracket
system that is up to Campagnolo standards, without the wave washer.
Disclaimer: You can have the best bike components in the world, but if they are not
installed and adjusted properly, they're not going to perform up to the level that
they were designed to work. For this to procedure to be successful, it's imperative
that this is done correctly. I will try to be as concise as possible. If you have any
questions, do not hesitate to email me.
Ok... Let's get started.
Since this evolves around eliminating the wave washer, there needs to be something
added to the equation to make up for it and the variations in bottom bracket shell
width. This is is achieved by adding a combination of spacers between the non-drive
side cup and the frame. In fact, every bike that I did this to required unique combinations of spacers.
This takes a lot of time and effort. Take your time to get it right.
Assuming that you already have the crankset installed on your bike, you are going to have
to remove it along with the bottom bracket. Obviously, you are going to
need the right tools. You can get the .pdf installation file from Campagnolo here. Just reverse
the procedure to remove it.
Once you have the crankset and bottom bracket cups removed from the frame, you want to take the time to clean and inspect the cups and the bearings. If one or both of the bearings and/or cups look like this (see photos below), then it's time ti replace those items.
Strong Suggestion: Take the time to properly face the bottom bracket shell. If you do not have to cutting tool, take it to the LBS that you feel is the most competent to do this task and say a prayer that they don't screw it up...
Now you want to go ahead and install the drive side cup as per the instruction manual. For what it's worth, I have installed numerous UT cups following both the loctite 222 method noted in the instructions and the more traditional grease-the-heck-out-of-it method. For the record, I prefer using grease (or anti-seize) and torquing to 35-40Nm. Partially install the retaining spring onto the cup and then after liberally applying a high quality grease to the bearing and internal surfaces of the cup, install the drive-side crankarm fully into the shell. Now you want to push the retaining spring ends into the corresponding holes.
This is where I abruptly veer from the SOP described in the official Campy instructions....
Install the non-drive side cup dry (i.e. without any grease). Thread cup into the shell just to the point where it comes into contact with the face of the bottom bracket shell. DO NOT TIGHTEN.
Fully insert the left side crank arm, without the wave washer, making sure that the crankarms are properly aligned. (It's easier/cleaner to not apply grease to the bearing and cup at this point, so don't bother.) Insert the fixing bolt into right side (drive-side) semi-axle and torque to 42Nm. At this point, the NDS or left bottom bracket cup and crankarm should look like this (See Fig. 1):
Now you want to unscrew the NDS/left cup to the point where it contacts the crankarm (See Fig. 2). This is possible because of the dimension/thickness of wave washer is no longer part of the equation.
I have found that instead of using feeler gauges to determine the amount of gap that's between the cup and the shell, it's better to find the size of the gap by using different combinations of shims contained in the kit. Keep in mind that at this point, we are only getting our first estimate of the amount of space that has to be made up. So grab the shims and find the combination that best fits (See Fig. 3). Set this combination of shims aside and write the thickness of the shims down so that you have your starting point. Note: I recommend using at least one of the 1.0mm shims and then add one .5mm shim, etc., going from thickest to thinest. If you try to add one .5mm shim to the 1.0mm shim and it doesn't quite fit, replace the .5mm shim with two .2mm shims... I think that you get the idea.
Now you want to remove the fixing bolt (from the drive-side/right semi-spindle), the left crankarm, and the left bottom bracket cup from the frame.
Insert the combination of shims that you determined in step 4 (and steps 9 and 10) onto the left bottom bracket cup, and thread back into frame (still without grease/antiseize, etc.). With the bottom bracket tool, tighten cup to 35Nm-40Nm. If you do not have access to a torque wrench, just snug it up without going crazy...
Reinstall the left crankarm as described in step 2 or in the Campagnolo installation instructions.
Now this is where we need to get picky... We want this to be balls-on, or as close to balls-on that we can get. This is when we determine if we have to add more thickness to the equation, or remove some. Usually with the first attempt, I find that I have to add... If the crankset spins freely (move the chain out of the way), then you know that you have not added too much thickness in spacers. So either you have nailed it the first time, or you need to add more because of axial play...
The way that you determine if you have any play or side-to-side movement is by grabbing onto the left crankarm and either the seattube or downtube and moving the crankarm towards and away from the frame, or perpendicular to the frame. Sensitivity to movement is key here...If you feel just some movement or play, you will need to add to the thickness of the shims. Add in small increments because it's easier to add thickness and decrease the play than it is to add too much. Important: It is crucial that you do not add too many shims. Adding too much thickness could lead to damage to the bearings and not allow the Hirth joint to completely come together as designed which in turn could lead to failure. It's not difficult to get this right. For example: If you started with one 1.0mm and two 0.2mm shims for a total of 1.4mm of shim thickness, and you still have some play/movement, I would replace the two 0.2mm shims with one 0.5mm shim giving you 1.5mm of shim thickness...and so forth. So, if you feel some movement, you need to go back to step 5, make the shim adjustments while doing step 6 and then complete step 7.
Check for axial movement as described in step 9 above. If there still is some movement (which should be less than before), then add to the thickness, and repeat steps, 5,6, and 7. (Chances are that you will get to the point when the crank is too tight and/or binds against the left cup. If this occurs, just subtract the smallest amount of shim thickness that you can.) If you do not have any side movement.... You're done!!! Well... not really, but almost... Proceed to step 11.
Now that you have determined the correct amount of shims, go back one last time the step 5. While completing step 6, apply grease/anti-seize to left cup and bottom bracket shell threads and then tighten left cup to torque spec mentioned above. Finally, when you are doing step 7, apply a good amount of high quality grease to the internal cup surfaces and the bearing. Make sure that you insert the fixing bolt into the right side semi-axle and tighten to 42Nm. (See Fig. 4)
Congrats! You are done! Now all that you have to do is clean up.
Click on photos for larger images.
RogueMechanic Wavewasherectomy Shim kit is available here.
Available now for English Bottom Brackets.
Coming Soon... Wavewasherectomy Shim Kits for Italian Bottom Brackets!
Made in U.S.A.
I hope that this helps. Based on the volume of emails and comments that I received about this issue, I believe that there are more people experiencing Campagnolo Ultra-Torque problems than those few folks on some of the cycling forums would like for you to believe. I really appreciate your patience and all of the kind comments that I have received here and via email. If you have questions, just let me know.
Way back in September of 2008, I published my initial post about what I thought was a problem with the Ultra-Torque design. Now going on a year later, I am even more confident with my initial theory. But now I have a solid solution to the problem that some who have a Campagnolo Ultra-Torque crankset/bottom bracket may have experienced.
First, I want to make a couple points...